Monday, September 9, 2013

Calabogie bouldering


I was out bouldering a Calabogie on Sunday; enjoying the fine fall weather with Pete, Iris and Hedy. I believe this was my third trip the boulders and this time I decided to go for volume until I found something to work on. I ticked a good number of easy problems.

The Pinnacle Gnome V0- : Definitely stand on "the summit"
Not a Jedi Yet V0- : Easy slab warm up
Big Blue Ox V0- : Short, like 5.5 climbing
Unnamed V0- : Some new line on the chief boulder
White Buffalo V0: More like 5.8 climbing
Westward Ho V0 : Worth doing, easy top-out
Flight of Fancy V1: Easy slab
Bloody Kristal Direct V2: This seemed way over graded at V2, V1 at most.
Skull-Fucking Bunnies V3: The top of the boulder is a mess so downclimb this one.
Scratching Post Direct V3: Took a couple tries to find "the right" feet for me, nice problem.
Meanie V3: I did it twice because hand jams are fun (use tape)
Solid Ether V4: A much better line than Bunnies, downclimb Bunnies.
The Orbital Traverse V4: EasyV4? I don't know, I flashed this.
Orbital Insertion V4: Another easy V4? I messed up the flash, second try.
Trade Route to India V5: This took many tries (15+) to workout the beta and body position. This was my last problem of the day; I'm glad I stuck around to finish it. A must do problem and the top-out is easy if you can get there

Monday, September 2, 2013

What goes in, must come out?

It has been a awhile since I posted and for the most part, it is because I have not had anything too exciting to say. Not that, that has stopped me in the past though. I have not had a big sending day in awhile. You know one of those days where it all clicks and somehow you get that hard onsight or redpoint or simply just climb many routes. In any case, I have been climbing at the usual places Calabogie, Luskville and a trip or two to Montagne d'Argent.

I was out at Home Cliff yesterday. After climbing Peggy and Piton highway I gave Direttissisma two attempts. I got to the top both times but came off a few times between the second and third bolt. It is a fun route with clean falls.

Also, while at Home Cliff I manage to get a #3 Camalot so stuck I had to leave it behind; I must have tired for an hour to free it. Today I returned on a solo mission to recover it. As luck would have it, the cam came out rather quickly.