Sunday, June 16, 2013

La Bleue, Val David

Which Crack?

Alp 5.6 - A very enjoyable, although thoughtful in places, warm up with the start shown in the above photo. Lots of gear opportunities and bolted top anchors make for a safe lead.

Androgene 5.9 - I'm not sure where the 5.9 part on this route is; it felt pretty straight forward with solid jams and plentiful gear placements. Perhaps the small offwith section to the top out accounts for the grade if that is not your thing. Note that there are no bolted anchors on this climb but the walk off is easy.

Limace 5.9 - Un bel offwidth, a solid 5.9, this is a must climb! A #5 or #6 C4 would make the lead pretty chill to the horizontal traverse; I had neither. I was forced to run-it-out a little over a tipped out #4 which puts you in a potentially bad position. There is a hidden .75 C4 placement at the top of the offwidth that can be placed, with care, from a rather strenous position. The traverse itself is awesome too and takes gear between #1 and #3 C4. 

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