Monday, August 27, 2012

Home Cliff log update


After talking to the ACC today there will be a log carrying day organized between now and October. I will post up here when I have a date confirmed. In the mean time I encourage you to move a log to the base of Home Cliff next time you are there. 

Sunday, August 26, 2012

Heated hornets


Pete, Iris, Andrew and I headed out to Home Cliff on Saturday to climb a few of Gatineau's first generation routes, Peggy and Piton Highway. With haze hanging over the Ottawa river valley it was already feeling warm on the approach across the field; it would hit the mid 30's by afternoon.



 At the end of the field, where the climber's trail cuts into the woods, the NCC has piled a good number of pine logs. They are intended to be used for reinforcing and preventing further erosion of the Home Cliff base. The signs mentioned a partnership with the Ottawa ACC and local climbers, however this is the first I had heard of such a plan. Anyway, I believe the intended plan is for climber to move the logs to the base of the cliff; I'm not sure who is going to do the actual landscaping. As always there seems to be a large disconnect between the people using the cliffs and the powers that be, i.e. the NCC. There is also no mention of this on the ACC website. This should be posted on the Ottawa climbing forum at the very least. I guess I'll get in touch with the ACC.

Pete, being the pack mule that he is, suggested we carry two log on our way to Home Cliff. Sure why not, it is just more training weight. As it turns out they were the first two carried up, I would be happy to carry more if someone would just ask or organize a day to do so. On the upside, with such an initiative, it seems the NCC is looking at long term climbing at Home Cliff. So to all the people who owned the beer cans and water bottle I picked up yesterday, smarten up and take your garbage home.



 I started up Piton Highway first as it was still in the shade. Andrew started up Peggy, his first lead attempt, one he had been meaning to do for years. I really like Piton Highway. Pulling through the crux I headed toward the bolt after exiting the lower dihedral. Easy climbing here, however been 15 feet from the last bolt it is no place to do something stupid. You know, like reach into a crack that contains a hornets nest. Crap. Now, I'm not afraid of hornets but after being stung 5 times on the arms last year I certainly dislike the beasts. As I clipped the draw a hornet landed on the bolt and proceeded to attack it. Clipping the rope I downclimbed 4 or 5 feet and left around the corner onto the face. I stood 5 feet along a ledge, hiding out, until the hornets calmed down. Lucky for me the face is an easy variation of Piton Highway which meant I could give the hornets a wide berth and finish the climb as well.


Also while at home cliff I gave Direttissisma 5.11a a go for the first time. I blew the onsight quickly as I missed a key hold between the 1st and 2nd bolt. I found the route difficult to read at first and the overhanging nature of the climb, plus the heat, drained my strength. There may have been some aiding on draws :). Pete and Andrew gave it a go on TR and with their beta I managed to one hang it on TR later. I'll give it another lead attempt next time I'm there. 

Update: Well it is Monday and I definitely got stung on one arm. I was not sure at first because it did not hurt too much at the time but there is a definite swollen welt that appeared late yesterday.
 
Direttissisma 5.11a, Photo by Iris
 

Tuesday, August 21, 2012

Climbs to date, 2012

It does not seems like much climbing and it is already the end of August. Of course, I could list off a number of reasons but that is not the point. The point is, fall is here and the number of climbing days is now disappearing fast. Let's hope for good weather.


Climb
Grade
Area
date(s)
notes
Route A
5.4 trad
North Wall, Gatineau Park
March 10th
lead
Route B
5.4 trad
North Wall, Gatineau Park
March 10th
lead
Route C
5.5 trad
North Wall, Gatineau Park
March 10th
lead
Neruda
5.6 trad
Cave Wall, Gatineau Park
March 10th
lead
Neruda
5.6 trad
Cave Wall, Gatineau Park
March 31st
lead solo
Al on the Run
5.11c sport
Cave Wall, Gatineau Park
March 31st
lead attempt - no redpoint
Calabogie Sunset
5.5 mixed
Calabogie
April 14th
lead solo
Phasers on Kill
5.7 trad
Calabogie
April 14th
lead, my variation
Vulcan Mind direct
5.11b/c mixed
Calabogie
April 14th
TR-clean
Fire Free
5.5 trad
Gatineau Park
April 22nd
lead - clean (basically flash
 - climbed it 3 years ago)
Grolsch
5.8 trad
 Gatineau Park
April 22nd
lead - take 3 #1 BD or use
 rigid friend and 2 #1 BD,
 not a clean ascent
Johnny Rock
5.9+ trad
 Gatineau Park
April 22nd
lead - small gear - #0,#1 C3
 and blue tcu at crux, not clean

Bitter Fingers
5.6 trad
Gatineau Park
April 28 th
lead - awkward, committing start
Slippery when wet
5.10d sport
Gatineau Park
April 28 th
lead - was a bit wet
Wish you were here
5.12b/c sport
 Gatineau Park
April 28 th
Worked on TR, multiple hangs,
did all the moves
Neruda
5.6 trad
Cave Wall, Gatineau Park
May 12 th
lead
Security
5.10d mixed
Cave Wall, Gatineau Park
May 12 th
TR - clean
Al on the Run
5.11c sport
Cave Wall, Gatineau Park
May 12 th
lead attempt - no redpoint
Rockaholic
5.8 trad
Beer Walls, Daks
May 19 th
Onsight
Clutch and cruise
5.8+ trad
Beer Walls, Daks
May 19 th
Couple hangs to get over roof
Gob Hoblin
5.7 trad
Creature Wall, Daks
May 20 th
Onsight
Le Recoin
5.7+ trad
Mont Condor, Val David
May 26 th
onsight, wide, 2 (3 would
 be better)  #4 BD, lead then
 lap on TR to clean
Pas de Face
5.10c trad
Mont Condor, Val David
May 26 th
onsight,  4 bolts now, gear
up top, lead then lap on TR
 to clean
Bloody Hand
5.7 trad
Mont Condor, Val David
May 26 th
onsight, Finished after Matt
and Jeff backed off
Nez en Moins
5.11a
Mont Condor, Val David
May 26 th
TR - one hang, slipped
off mantle
L'hypothenuse
5.7+ trad
L'hippocampe, Montagne d'Argent
June 10th
Onsight, good pro,
easy warm up, 5.7 at most
L'envers de l'arete
5.10b trad
L'hippocampe, Montagne d'Argent
June 10th
Lead, one hang, easy redpoint
 next time, must do route
Tally-ho
5.11b sport
L'hippocampe, Montagne d'Argent
June 10th
Lead attempt, rotten crumbly
rock, not fun, bailed off third
 bolt
Dad's
5.10b sport
L'hippocampe, Montagne d'Argent
June 10th
Lead, climbed to second
 last bolt and exited to the side
Line left of First Flight
5.8 ? mixed
Calabogie
June 23rd
lead, 3 bolts + gear
First Flight retro bolted
5.8 sport
Calabogie
June 23rd
lead
Phasers on Kill
5.7 trad
Calabogie
June 23rd
lead, my variation
Phasers on stun
5.5 trad
Calabogie
June 23rd
TR in approach shoes
Tipytoe
5.11d mixed
Calabogie
June 23rd
TR, 2 bolts + gear, easier
than Vulcan Mind direct,
 Incorrect start?
Combustion Lente
5.8 trad
Grand Canyon, Montagne d'Argent
July 22nd
Onsight, Ok, not that great
Crocodile
5.9+ trad
Grand Canyon, Montagne d'Argent
July 22nd
Onsight, Good climb after
the broken beginning,
hand/fist crack is good, goes on
 up a lichen cover slab, 60m
 rope is just enough.
Invitation Mixte
5.10b mixed
Grand Canyon, Montagne d'Argent
July 22nd
Lead, (TR once two years ago)
 Gear is small and tricky, lots
 of the best gear spots at the best holds
Madame la Marquise
5.6- trad
Grand Canyon, Montagne d'Argent
July 22nd
Lead, straight forward, a bit cleaner than last time
After the Gold Rush
5.9 mixed
Calabogie
July 29th
Onsight attempt, ended up aiding a section on small wires, did the direct finish
Head Banger
5.10a mixed
Calabogie
July 29th
TR
Head Banger
5.10a mixed
Calabogie
Aug 19th
redpoint
Tampon Applicator
5.10b/c sport
Calabogie
Aug 19th
TR - couple tries to pull roof