Friday, May 13, 2011

Mid week at Montagne d'Argent

Pete and I took advantage of the nice weather and made a mid week trip to Montagne d'Argent. As expected the place was more or less deserted. We started in Le Fou to warm up on a couple sport routes before finding a gear climb to work on. Since Pete had not been up the multi-pitch routes yet it seemed like a good choice. We climbed  the usual linkup: P1 5.9+ of Lollypops, P2 5.10b Maudit fou and P3 5.9+ Krakatoa. I lead the first two pitches and Pete took the third. P2 was damp which made the moves a little more thought provoking as I moved up the thin slab. The second half of P3 was quite wet. After topping out we walked off as it is much faster than rapping.

Back on the ground we ate lunch and enjoyed the weather. I did notice the Black flies are starting to make an appearance but not biting yet. Once fed and watered, Pete and I eyed up Coeur vaillant 5.10b.

Coeur vaillant is a very aesthetic finger crack with a pumpy crux about 15 feet of the ground. The tricky part about the climb is placing the gear, small cams and weird nuts. Off the ground you are faced with surmounting a bulge using an arcing thin crack to a short horizontal traverse into the main splitter.The hands are ok but the feet are pure friction in sloped dishes at the crux. I took a good fall onto a green 00 C3 here. Once though the crux there is fantastic ledge to rest on and gather yourself for the remainder of the climb. At this point the climbing is easier but sustained and the gear continues to be tricky in the irregular crack. This is a must do climb.   

No comments:

Post a Comment